By Contrast, I Love Mushrooms

Since Stuart just hated on the 'shrooms, I feel obligated to post a contrary view. I love 'em. Not all of them of course, but they are highly fungi-ble (hah!) in cooking. I won't call myself a mushroom expert but I think they're a versatile ingredient.

Raw mushrooms seem fairly pointless most of the time. Maybe as a little sponginess in a salad with a hint of earthiness perhaps. A lot of the more flavorful mushrooms are simply too tough for easy chewing.

So basically you need to cook them, or pickle, marinate, etc.

Mushrooms may not be vegetables, but they make an admirable non-animal ingredient that substitutes for meat in many circumstances, which is why you see them on vegetarian menus, or as a way to boost the meatiness of meat dishes.

As Stuart also loved on the soup, I'll throw out a nice mushroom soup which is a nice basis for improvisation. All ingredients are approximate. I've left this totally vegetarian but, again, alter to taste.

-1 lb crimini (baby Portabella) mushrooms, sliced
-1 lb mixed mushrooms of shiitake, oyster, etc. (you may want the equivalent in dried and rehydrated), julienned
-1 yellow onion, chopped
-1 carrot, chopped
-1 stick celery, chopped
-6 small red potatoes, cut into eighths
-2 tbsp dried tarragon
-3 tbsp paprika
-1 tsp cayenne
-heavy grind fresh black pepper
-salt
-1/4 cup olive oil
-4 cloves garlic, smashed
-bay leaves
-1 cup white wine
-1/4 cup sherry vinegar
-water as needed

As you're making mushroom soup, you might as well wash them because waterlogging won't be an issue (and, if you believe Alton Brown's experiments, isn't an issue regardless). Some mushrooms have tough stems, which you might want to remove or cook and then remove later. It depends on what you're using, but nothing breaks the spell of a good soup like a big woody chunk of fungus stem. In general, the tougher the mushroom, the smaller you need to cut.

In the bottom of the pot, brown the mushrooms in a little bit of olive oil (with salt) and remove so as not to overcook them. Reduce heat and sweat the mirepoix, reserving one clove of garlic. Then add the herbs, spices, liquid and the mushrooms. Simmer for a half hour, or until the mushrooms are tender. Add the rest of the olive oil and garlic at the end. Good the day of but better the day after.

You can go various directions with this soup. To add an Asian take, put in some miso and tamari instead of the sherry vinegar. Change the herbs to make it more Mediterranean, etc. It's soup, have fun!