Cooking Meat for People With Very Different Tastes in Doneness
This is tricky. My friends from Poland has friends from the old country in last night so I volunteered to make something very American and of course chose the ribeye. (It was Independence Day!) Well it turns out that in Poland everybody eats their meat well done. I think well done on a perfectly good steak is somewhat of a crime but if that's what people want, that's what I'll do. I didn't want my steak like that, which is always a little tricky. This required some mental tap dancing to get right. So here's how I did it.
(1) Put on a good album. As I've been on a '70s jazz rock kick of late, this was legendary drummer Bill Bruford's "Feels Good to Me," which is filled with awesome performances by Bruford, Jeff Berlin (bass), Allan Holdsworth (guitar), Dave "Not the guy from Eurhythmics" Stewart (keyboards), Annette Peacock (vocals), and Kenny Wheeler (flugelhorn). I was going to need to stay in time....
(2) Let meat come to room temperature and preheat the oven to 425. (I was cooking some sweet potatoes, too, so they went in during the preheat.)
(3) Meanwhile, saute 8 oz crimini mushrooms, deglaze with a half cup of white wine and tarragon.
(4) Salt, pepper and oil the steaks as usual. Because I was feeling adventurous, I put onion and garlic powder on, too.
(5) Sear the ones that are to be well done and place in a pyrex dish in the oven with a half cup of white wine to prevent the meat from drying out and to generate more jus. Cook for 25 minutes (about---the wine gives you some leeway).
(At this point, the cast iron skillet was getting kind of nasty so I gave it a quick wash to get out the burned bits on the bottom. Be careful to avoid thermal shock, though.)
(6) Then sear the ones that are to be medium rare, i.e., cooked in a civilized manner, and let finish in the pan, or transfer to another pyrex dish and finish in the oven for 8 minutes or so (if you lack pan space).
(7) Remove all from the oven and allow to stand for 10 minutes. The wine and beef jus from the well done pan should be transfered in with the mushrooms.
(There was an added complication of a latecomer. I seared one steak but did not finish it so that it could simply be finished in a medium pan to the desired doneness.)
The only real compromise I see here is the use of the white wine in the baking of the well done steaks because you lose that nice crust that comes from pan searing. However, without it these things would be shoe leather. If you're careful about pouring the wine there will still be a crust on the top.


Comments
alcohol and meat
Cool idea. I've discovered that if I reduce the wine by about half (very low simmer for about 20 minutes), I get all the flavor but none of the toughening. I don't imagine the effect would be all that noticeable with steak, but it's significant when you're doing a bolognese or working with ground meats. Hmm, you might even throw some pearl onions in with the steaks next time (if you have them handy).
Ooh, pearl onions, good idea,
Ooh, pearl onions, good idea, right in the bottom of the pan.
The reduction first is also a good idea. I guess I stumbled into that with this method as I reduced the mushrooms pretty thoroughly and just added the jus to them.
Anyway, I got some feedback after I wrote the post... "best steaks we ever had." Uh, OK....
If I could only get them to try medium rare, that would change in a heartbeat. ;)
I don't understand people who
I don't understand people who like their meat overcooked... but at least you got good feedback?
I don't get it either but
I don't get it either but that's how things are cooked there so it's what people are used to, I guess. Anyway, yes, feedback was "best steaks we ever had." I'll take that but silently I thought, "Yeah, that's because all you've ever had was grossly overcooked."
To be fair, most Polish cuisine makes use of fattier pork (not the super lean stuff we get here) and tends to be stewed, braised, or the like. There's a very nice dish of baked cod with tomatoes, for instance, and things like hunter's stew (cabbage, sausage, etc.). Something like steak just isn't in the cuisine.